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Last summer my fiancé and I spent the summer in Paris, London, and in the villages of the Bretagne region of france, on the coast.
I'm no stranger to the busy streets of Paris and the rustic coast of Bretagne but it was my fiancé's first time visiting Europe and my first time to check out the sights and sounds of London.
[paris pics] [london pics] [bretagne pics]
TOP 3 TIPS ON HOW TO ENJOY A SUMMER IN PARIS
1 - Do not waste your time climbing to the top of anything : The city of Paris is littered with majestic monuments such as the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triumph, or Notre Dame. It can cost up to $20 euros to get access to climb to the top of any of these but where you'll pay the most for this activity is in Time. The lines during the summer months are very long and the wait is even longer. My advice: Skip the climb. You didn't come to Paris to spend hours standing in a line in the summer heat. Instead, revel in the beauty of the city's architecture with a view from the ground up. If you must have a view of Paris from up high, go to Montmartre's Basillique du Sacre Coeur where you can climb the hilltop (or use the convenient escalator) and enjoy a panoramic view of the city to spot the Eifel Tower in the distance. On warm summer nights you might even catch an outdoor movie screening with locals on the grassy hilltop. This time, they were showing "Midnight In Paris" in english with french subtitles. In my opinion, a much more enjoyable experience than standing in line.
2 - Avoid tourist trap cafes : By all means, do not miss the opportunity to walk along the Seine river and enjoy the views from many of Paris' bridges. But tourists should be aware that most of the restaurants near the Seine, along the famous Champs Elysees, and by the Louvre Museum are tourist traps. This means that, although they advertise traditional french fare and lure the unsuspecting tourist in with typical outdoor seating and bright traditional colors, the majority of these cafes are over-priced and serving up less than average dishes. What most people don't realize is that Paris is a multi-cultural city and so many of it's best eating options are ethnic. My advice : Instead of expecting a traditional french meal in touristy areas, go for something Algerian, Egyptian, Moroccan, West African, Indian, or even Asian. If you're willing to step outside of the box, see my suggestions below for a great, authentic, and very french meal in Paris.
3 - The rudeness factor : You've heard the rumors. French people can be arrogant, rude, and overall unhelpful. hmmm...doesn't sound too different than New Yorkers during tourist season. Here's the deal: Your waiters don't work for tips, they get paid a descent salary and, often, the waiters are part-owners in the business. French people like to take their time eating food so the waiter is not going to come to your table every 3 minutes to see if you need anything. Expect this and understand that they're not ignoring you because you're American, instead they're respecting you by treating you like a local frenchman. While Americans expect waiters to check-in often, the French consider the act of interrupting your meal rude. Instead they assume that, if you need something, you'll simply ask. [see my blog post about eating like a frenchman] My advice : understand your surroundings. If you're in a district of Paris like the Latin Quarter or the Bastille you're more likely to be treated with less attention than if you're in the Opera district or Montmartre. Some districts are packed with young students who don't expect the same level of service that a more mature adult is use to receiving in more upscale areas. Also, remember that the French take their time and don't have "bubbly" attitudes, unlike Americans who have come to expect lighting-fast customer service with an ear-to-ear smile. It's simply a different way of life. Isn't that why you're traveling in the first place? To experience something different?
TOP 3 RESTAURANT DESTINATIONS BY REGION
PARIS, France
1 - Le Bruant : 59 rue Abbesses, Montmartre, 18ème Paris, France
This is authentic French fare and atmosphere at an impressive price (less than $20 Euros per person). The duck fois gras was rich and creamy. The classic steak frites is executed to perfection here. The salmon appetizer was fresh, flavorful and the portion sizes were generous. The "formule" menu changes daily and is always served up to perfection. The wait staff is very friendly and willing to help out in English when they can. This is a favorite on my list and a place to be visited several times a week if you can. Always fresh, always pleasant, always excellent in every way.
2 - La Tour D'Argent : 15 Quai de la Tournelle, 5ème Paris, France
If you're looking for that quintessential fancy, romantic, candlelit atmosphere with breath-taking views of the city, this is where you'll find it.
Here, they pride themselves on serving only the best and are well known for their preparation of a specific duck raised at Maison Burgaud à Challans, a house that has been raising this duck since the 1650s.
Food, Atmosphere and impeccable, white tablecloth, service like this comes at a price. Expect to spend at least $100 Euros per plate.
3 - Ethnic Options : everywhere in Paris. Step away from the busy tourist sites and take a metro ride in any direction, get off, and stroll the streets until you happen upon a restaurant that's serving up something you've never even heard of before. I guarantee it's going to be a delicious adventure. My favorite is Algerian cuisine but the options are endless.
LONDON, England
1 - The Cross Keys : 31 Endell St, London WC2H 9EB
This classic pub is exactly what you imagine to find everywhere in London but the truth is that places like this are actually hard to track down. We ended up eating here twice and were simply enchanted by the authentic English pub feel.
You'll find many establishments around London that are very decent pub experiences but they're mostly too similar to an American version for my taste. If you're looking for the type of thing you've seen in old movies, this is where it's at. Order the meat pie and enjoy your surroundings. It's cheap too: only around 7 pounds per plate.
2 - Chinatown : Newport Pl, London WC2
Chinatown is about a 4 block radius full of everything you'd expect to get in a typical Chinatown experience: Street food vendors serving up mystery dishes. Various chinese BBQ buffets and plenty of traditional medicine shops offering remedies for anything and everything.
3 - Cote Bistro : 17-21 Tavistock St, London WC2E 7PA
Leave it to me to find great french food in London. Located just a couple of blocks from the Thames river, this restaurant served up an atmosphere and delicious dishes that did not dissapoint. The portion sizes, presentation, and flavors were out of this world and at a very fair price: less than 17 pounds per person.
BRETAGNE (La Trinité-sur-Mer, Carnac, Auray, Vannes)
1 - Crêperie Ty Malou : 10 Cours des Quais, Trinité sur Mer, France
If you're in the Bretagne region of france you'll soon figure out that Crêpes are an important part of the region's food culture. Ty Malou is a favorite of mine and a place that I visit every time I'm here. The service is friendly, modern, and serves up both salty and sweet Crêpes. They also advertise that they can greet and serve you in English, a nice gesture towards the many tourists that visit this area. This popular spot can fill up quickly at lunch hour so arrive just before the rush to ensure quick seating. Servings are generous and run about 11 Euros a plate.
2 - Restaurant Le Quai : 8 Cours des Quais, Trinité sur Mer, France
Just next door to my favorite Crêpe restaurant is this amazing seafood location. I've been eating at this well known spot for fresh seafood ever since I was a young teenager. If you're new to seafood in this region, I recommend the "Fruits des Mer" plate. It's a combination of every fruit of the sea to include delicious snails, langoustines, smoked salmon, clams, oysters on the half shell and all if it was caught that morning. Fresh! Expect to spend anywhere from 15 - 30 Euros a plate.
3 - The towns of Auray, Carnac, and Vannes : these historic villages and beach towns offer a wide variety of traditional french fare to range from the classic Crêpe to Pizza to Seafood and anything in between. You can't go wrong no matter what you choose. Take a stroll down to Auray's Port Saint-Goustan district where you can grabe a bite at many of the cafes named after Benjamin Frankilin for his visit to France during the revolutionary war in America. Or, enjoy some fun in the sun at any of the bars and restaurants in Carnac where you'll find a beach town similar to any american version you're familiar with. Vannes boasts a medieval city center with dozens of hidden gems within its walls and narrow, cobblestone streets. Enjoy!